Change Islands and Fogo Island

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Of course it was still pouring rain today.  We are thinking of putting pontoons on Elbroko.  But like I said before, we have to take what we get, so off we go to catch the ferry to Change Island.  We have to drive to Farewell about 40 minutes away to catch the 7:45 ferry. There is one car ahead of us and one behind us, that’s it. I went into the terminal to see about a ticket but no one was home!  Figured we would get our ticket on board.  Good thing the fellow ahead of us knew what to do.  The ferry sounded the horn and off he went so we thought we’d better just follow him.  Can’t buy a  ticket on board either, I guess we’ll pay when we get off on Change Island.  It is only a 20 minute ferry ride which would have been beautiful on a sunny day.  You weave through lots of little rocky islands.  Arrived 20 minutes later and just drive right off, still don’t pay, hey we’re liking this!  The island is only 12 kms long and the ferry docks at the opposite end of the island from where the town is.  I guess they want you to see the whole Island.  It was very lovely rock and trees!  There are approximately 250 residents on Change Island, 29 students in kindergarten to grade 12.  The restaurant was closed, the interpretation centre was closed and there wasn’t much else around that could be closed.

But that’s OK this little town reminded me of how I remembered Newfoundland from my childhood days.  The smaller, older wood sided homes right on the water.  Their fishing outbuildings and wharfs were right in front. It was awesome! 

One of the places I did want to check out was the Newfoundland Pony Refuge. We found it with no problem not many places to hide anything on this little island.   The Newfoundland Pony has been declared critically endangered and this refuge was established to carry out a breeding program.  The lady that runs it owns 9 of these ponies and had 3 brand new colts one 3 weeks old, one 2 weeks old and one just one day old. I was in my glory with these little ones.

The owner has received a grant from the Government to help build a new barn on 5 acres of crown land to try and re-establish the herd of Newfoundland Ponies.  She has given so much of her time and money to try and save this important symbol of Newfoundland heritage.  We could not walk away without making a donation to help her efforts.  The ferry leaving Change Islands to Fogo Island did not leave for an hour so that gave us both a chance to have 40 winks in the truck, then onto Fogo, another 20 minute ferry ride. Still nobody to pay!  Fogo is a much bigger island, it even has more than one town!  The weather is still nasty but that doesn’t stop us, we still try and see as much as we can.  Our neighbours at the camp told us there was a humpback whale that had come up on the beach in Joe Batt’s Arm.  I had to see this, it might be as close as I get to a whale even if it is dead!  Doug is the smart one, he stays in the truck while I strike off across the beach in the pouring rain in search of a dead whale!  (I know, I’m not too bright sometimes) 10 minutes into my walk I see it.  It is massive!  

Apparently I am not the only one who wants to see a dead whale there was a worn path.  Doug and I tour around a bunch of the little towns on the island, Shoal Bay, Stag Harbour, Seldom and Little Seldom, didn’t see a big Seldom.  We had to stop in a small café to enjoy a cup of coffee and talk to the locals.  Fogo Island has several art studios that are very modern and built right on the water’s edge.  You have to take a walking path to get to them.  I stumbled across one in Tilting when I walked up a trail to watch the huge waves crashing the shore. 

Also along this path was a cemetery that I cannot for the life of me figure out how they dig graves in the rocks! 
Tilting was a lovely little village that had stick fences around their properties and lots of old time Newfoundland images.   

You have probably guessed by now that I am totally soaked from walking around in the rain, but oh well I have thoroughly enjoyed my journey back in time as I wondered through the villages that brought back some memories.  We catch the 4:00 ferry back to Farewell our starting point, and finally we have to pay.  A whole $22.50 for Hemi and her 2 passengers to tour around these lovely little islands of Newfoundland.

We have another yummy supper waiting for us in the crockpot when we finally get back to Elbroko.  Another great day inspite of the monsoons!

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